Bozeman Montana Ice Climbing

Located just south of Bozeman, the Hyalite Canyon area provides steep crags and sheer faces for the experienced ice climber. Formed by the Hyalite Creek, the ice climbing area is known among the local ice climbing community as an area to prove your skills. Remember that ice climbing is a serious and technical sport; it should not be attempted by anyone without sufficient experience.

Hyalite Canyon boasts some of the earliest forming and accessible ice in the lower 48. The earliest climbs form by late November, while most of the climbs form by mid-December. The ice climbing season typically lasts through March and sometimes through April.

The climbing season is divided into three categories: early season, broad season, and late season. Early season climbs form when the canyon receives a wet fall. However, when the temperatures get colder, the water sources freeze and stop, resulting in brittle ice because no new ice forms. Broad season climbs usually form in drainages which have a constant source of water. Creeks in these drainages typically flow all year long, and in the winter, form fat popular climbs. Conditions of broad season climbs change throughout the winter from steep steps in the early season to broad sweeps later in the season. Late season climbs form when water flows during the day and freezes in the cold clear temperatures at night. Access to late season climbs usually require a snowmobile.

If you are climbing mixed rock and ice climbs, be aware that the rock in Hyalite Canyon can vary from somewhat good to very bad. Much of the bad layer is found in the east side of the canyon, in Flanders, and in East Hyalite drainages. This unstable rock tends to be chunky and requires a large rack with a wide range of gear. The good layer of rock is found on the west side of the main Hyalite climbing area. The safer Absaroka Volcanics are made of 50 million year old andesite which tends to be friendly to thin stoppers and other small gear.

To get to Hyalite Canyon, turn off I-90 at Exit 305. Go south on 19th Street through town for nearly 10 miles. Turn left onto Hyalite Canyon Road. From the intersection, different climbing areas are located an additional 2-13 miles down the road. During the winter, Hyalite Canyon Road is occasionally closed due to heavy snows and the Forest Service decides not to plow. When the road does reopen, drive carefully as the road will become too narrow for two-lane traffic. When you approach an oncoming car, one of you will have to pull to the side to let the other pass.